A custom fit swimsuit
18 August 2008, 12:13The culmination of July’s Knit Month was sewing my own swimsuit, but due to motivational difficulties in the photoshoot and photo editing post-production, I’m afraid the photos are a few weeks late!
You might remember when I sewed my muslin suit that I used KnipMode 06/2008 #1 and lengthened the bodice pieces by one inch.
I haven’t worn one piece suits for a few years, but I remember RTW suits from high school always being a bit short in the torso, so I’m not surprised this would be the same, despite my never having to do long-torso alterations for anything else.
I do wish, however, that I’d taken some photos of myself in the muslin suit because you see things in photos that just don’t appear in a full length mirror sometimes.
Like the side view – where my boobs completely disappear. Whoa! If I actually wore a swimsuit more than once a year, I’d definitely add a mesh lining and bra cups to this suit for the above reason (as it is, only the crotch portion is lined with some beige swimsuit lining). But overall, I’m pleased with the rest of the fit – the leg openings and straps are comfortable, and it doesn’t pull in any strange ways, and the seams all lined up nicely even with my alteration. As it is, I’m happy to wear it for the very, very occasional times I ever see a pool or beach – this year, I haven’t even the foggiest idea when I’ll first get to wear this since we’re not going on holiday…
I learned a great technique for swimsuit straps in the Pattern Review forums, though! In my muslin I just created a tube of fabric, threaded the elastic in, and topstitched, which was okay but looks a bit wrinkly when slack. For this final version, I instead serged the elastic on while I was creating the tube’s seam (you could also just zigzag stitch this if you’ve only got a sewing machine), making the folded tube the same width as the elastic. Then flip it all right side out, and voila – it’s all neatly attached and without any wrinkles!
I’ve still got enough of the swimsuit lycra from eLingeria to make at least one or maybe two more suits, so I might go for a bikini next summer if I’m not too swamped with wedding sewing. Speaking of which, I’ve got some fabulous detail shots of my grandmother’s vintage gown later in the week…
Tags: knipmode, knitComment [3]
Silver linen shift dress
13 August 2008, 16:26This dress has been fully formed in my mind ever since February, when I bought Burda 7783 and this beautiful linen/lurex blend at Hickeys in Dublin. Luckily, they print the fabric content and washing instructions right on the receipts, so I can tell you with some degree of accuracy that this dress is 53% linen, 44% rayon, and 3% lurex. As far as I’m concerned, this fabric is 100% gorgeous – it’s got a subtle bit of shine under bright lights that really makes it special.
The details on this pattern are really amazing. At first glance, it’s just a raglan-sleeved, princess lined shift dress, but then the little touches start to emerge… the pleated scoop pockets that integrate perfectly into the princess seam… the gathered, banded puff sleeve… the curved back darts that mimic a princess seam… the gently tapered hem… and the standing boat neck collar.
The fit is beautiful here, and the instructions were absolutely clear. The only parts I had issues with were their binding of the pockets (which had to be hand stitched inside despite their suggestion otherwise) and the sleeve binding, which I didn’t interface so I could get the full benefits of the bias around my muscular upper arms. Don’t believe the wrinkles in the above photos – it was an incredibly windy day on the river when we took these and I had to discard a good 60-70 photos due to my dress billowing oddly or my hair in my face, etc. So forgive the side and back views especially – it really doesn’t cling so much to my backside under normal conditions.
And if you didn’t believe me, here’s proof of the wind!
I made this specifically to wear to our friends Holly and Simon’s wedding at the end of the month, so this is the last time I’ll be wearing it before then!
Tags: burda, dress, linenComment [7]
A Taupe Notch Skirt!
11 August 2008, 12:11This has got to be the quickest ever turnaround for a fabric purchase. I bought a remnant of taupe big wale corduroy on Thursday at Goldhawk Road for a pound, sent it through the washer on Friday, hung it out to dry overnight on Friday, and had sewn it up into a new skirt by Saturday dinnertime! It didn’t even see my stash box!
A few months ago I set myself the task of scanning in all the index pages of my pattern magazines (it’s easier now that I can just scan one at a time as they arrive) so I find it’s a lot easier to look through all my back issues for hidden gems when they’re all easily available online. I probably wouldn’t have even noticed BWOF 10/2006 #118 if I hadn’t scanned it in – I remember not liking much from this issue when I bought it – I only really got it for the included menswear section.
But on second inspection, I just loved the pockets and the tabbed waistband and how cute and quick it’d be, and for once, I even found the exact fabric they suggested! My remnant wasn’t quite enough fabric to make the nap and grainline run in the fun ways they suggested, though, so my waistband looks a tad different, and my tabs are about an inch shorter than theirs. But in the end, my pile of throwaway remains had nothing bigger than 3 inches by 6 inches! I love it when that happens!
I’m also extremely chuffed again with my invisible zipper application (it’s in the left sideseam, in that last photo above). I’ve been following a 2-pass method described in the July 2005 issue of Threads that has really made all the difference. Essentially, you sew down one side anywhere on the tape, making sure the zipper is aligned and curved nicely to the seam edge, then unzip it and sew down that same side again, but this time unfurling the teeth with your fingers and getting really, really close to the teeth. Since the zipper’s already attached from the first pass, you don’t have to worry about it moving at all. And then you do the same for the other side of the zipper. This method only uses a standard zipper foot, and I get much better results this way than I ever did with a speciality invisible zipper foot!
All in all, there’s nothing I don’t love about this skirt – it’s a great length, fits snugly on the hips, has great big stylish pleated pockets, and clean line in the back. In fact, it’s almost a “reverse mullet” – party in the front, and business in the back!
Tags: bwof, corduroy, skirtComment [13]
Reddy, Set, Sew!
31 July 2008, 12:35When I visited the States last summer, I bought lots of fabric but did very little clothes shopping, despite everything being so cheap on the “dollar discount”. The only garment purchase I did make was a simple black top from the Issac Mizrahi for Target range, and I’ve absolutely worn it to death in the past year. I was really excited to see that Vogue 8305 contains a shirt absolutely identical to my Target one, so I thought I’d give it a go in some inexpensive red cotton jersey to check the fit and construction before cutting into anything more expensive in the future.
(Whoa, my bum looks huge in that skort! Note to self – only wear it around the boat from here on out…)
I made a few changes to this pattern but overall I’m pleased with the fit – in a stretchier fabric this could be a dead-ringer for my RTW top, so the variation possibilities are endless… First change was that I eliminated the back zipper and cut the back piece on the fold. Really, a zipper on a knit top – why why why? Completely unnecessary! Second was to shorten the sleeves for a summer look, adding to my pile of alternative teeshirts! And finally, although I hate facings on knits as a general rule, I decided to keep these in, but much to my annoyance (and despite a ton of understitching!) the neck facings kept flipping out no matter what. They really should list 1/4 inch Stitch Witchery as a required notion on this pattern, because a length of that sandwiched between the neck edges and facings was the only thing to keep them in place!
The fit is really nice, though, and it’s a comfortable shirt to wear that looks a bit dressier than the average teeshirt, but I think the recent cotton interlock has really spoiled me – this jersey just feels kinda cheap in comparison. But lesson learned, and I’ll enjoy this shirt while it lasts! And you probably can’t notice in the dusky photos, but I’ve got professional makeup on! I had a photoshoot yesterday afternoon for ASOS‘s magazine, though for once it was actually for my day job rather than FehrTrade. Though I, of course, wore my own creations for the shoot!
Knit Month may be drawing to an end, but I’ve still got my swimsuit yet to show you, once I work up the nerve for a photoshoot and photoshop, and there’s still one day left to enter to win a copy of Patrones magazine!
Looking ahead, I was hoping to fit Burda WOF 02/08 #103 into Knit Month but last weekend left me utterly exhausted so I’ll be getting to that later in August. Next up is Burda 7783 which I’m sewing in plenty of time for a friend’s wedding at the end of August, and I’m finally moving forward with my coat for the sewalong. We’re at the cutting and thread tracing stage, which should keep me busy for a few nights!
Tags: knit, top, vogueComment [5]
That new chestnut!
23 July 2008, 15:51My unofficial knit month continues, this time with an incredibly comfortable “frankendress”! The top half is KnipMode April 2008 #13 (still available to buy from Naaipatronen, fyi), which you should remember from when I made it before in blue for myself and then again for my mom:
I absolutely love my top, and I often find myself in my wardrobe late at night picking out clothes for the next day, holding that shirt and asking myself “wait – did I already wear it this week?”. I just knew I had to turn this pattern into a dress to get even more wear out of it, so I searched my back issues of Burda WOF magazines and found a great knit dress to use for the bottom half: Burda WOF 05/05 #125.
I sat down with the two patterns and sketched out a combined technical drawing and then started thinking about my plan of attack to serge this all together, keeping in mind that it’s a lot easier to construct flat seams than in the round… I didn’t follow my plan exactly, but I did stick to the basic idea, and I’d definitely do it this way again.
(Let’s hear it for James, eh? He’s really outdone himself with this photoshoot in my opinion…)
It’s a little hard to see the print in the dappled sunshine above, but the fabric is a fabulous green and white chestnut print lycra jersey from Crybaby’s Boutique (you can see a swatch of the fabric in my summer sewing plans). They also stocked a brown and slate blue colourway of this print back when I bought this, and now I’m really kicking myself for not grabbing that, too. Then I could’ve had summer and winter versions of this dress!
It took a few bouts of pinning and basting to get the waist seam placed at the most flattering point for me, but I think I tackled it in the end, especially getting the “V” shaped seam in the front to lie nicely. I’ve since worn this dress to work (and then to an impromptu launch party at swanky Shoreditch House, where I got a “you look summery!” compliment), and then to a family barbecue where the sun even managed to come out for the occasion.
The lycra jersey is just so comfortable and the cut feels so flattering on that I’m really finding this version just as irresistible as the top. Now I only wish we were going on holiday this year so I could unfurl this, wrinkle-free, from my case in some foreign land! This dress just screams to be taken out and picnicked in…
I’m still clearing my backlog of posts this week, so there’s plenty more in store. And big thanks to Stacy for naming me an “Excellent Blog”! I’m not really into the meme stuff, but I still blush at compliments…
Tags: bwof, dress, knipmode, knit, s08Comment [6]
Blue kimono teeshirt
21 July 2008, 12:25I’m still working through my backlog of posts to show you everything I’ve made over the past fortnight, but the good news is, I’ve taken a lot of photos this weekend and should have enough for at least five delectable nuggets of sewing glee to share over the next few days.
Last weekend I revisited an old friend, the kimono sleeved-top of Simplicity 4020 which you may remember from when I made it in chocolate brown way back in October 2006.
This time I sewed it up in one metre of gorgeously soft cotton interlock from Pennine Outdoor (in “sapphyr” colour) and yet again, it’s a wonderfully comfortable yet slightly offbeat teeshirt. Extremely easy to sew and extremely easy to wear, this is one of the best beginner patterns around! I’ve got no issues with this pattern at all, and it’s quick and easy enough to make in an afternoon with a spare metre of knit fabric. What’s not to love?
Tags: knit, simplicity, topComment [5]
Run Like the Wind
15 July 2008, 12:32On Sunday I decided to step up my “July is Knit Month!” activities and finally break into the world of high-performance sports gear. I started running to lose weight a few years ago and, along with sewing, it’s now become my favourite way to both unwind and start the day. I really do get cranky and irritable if I don’t get my regular runs in!! Over the years I’ve amassed a good collection of wicking tops and trousers I wear in rotation until they fall apart, but recently I’ve been having a hard time finding good wicking sports gear under £30 a pop, and especially in the trouser style I prefer – long length and slightly boot cut. Everywhere I look it’s always either skin-tight leggings, capri length, or both! UGH!
So I was very happy to discover that Pennine Outdoor stock wicking sports fabrics, both polyester teeshirting AND Meryl cycling lycra! So in one shop I got supplies for both my tops and my trousers! Now, you may be excused for cringing at the mention of polyester, but in running circles it is well known that polyester is the preferred fabric as it doesn’t hold sweat or chafe like cotton does. If you ever get blisters from a run or long hike, switch to 100% polyester socks and you’ll never get them again. So while I shun polyester in regular sewing, I positively seek it out in running gear, especially when I find the exact same two-sided, slightly waffled weave that is used in all the official race shirts! Bamboo is even better than polyester, though, as it doesn’t hold the stink or microbial nasties either and is softer by a factor of ten, but that’s another discussion entirely…
Anyway, on to the sewing! Since I know my running habits I also know what I definitely do and don’t like in running gear – I need my tops to be close fitting and sleeveless, for starters. Shelf bras never offer enough support for me so I always wear a sports bra underneath even if there’s one built in, so I didn’t bother picking a pattern with an integrated bra. I liked the look of this running top from the February 2007 edition of KnipMode magazine, and for the running trousers I went back to the yoga trousers in Burda WOF 11/2007 (#122) that I’d made in fleece last winter.
I made some stylistic changes to both to suit my running penchants, however. I have a RTW Nike top that has all the seams serged in contrast woolly nylon thread on the outside, and I thought I’d give this a try instead of the piped contrast seams that KnipMode suggest. I also was itching to try out my black lycra FOE (also from Pennine) so I used this to edge the neckline and armscyes. On the trousers, I slimmed down the legs so they weren’t so boot cut, and halved the width of the waistband so I didn’t have to fold it over (and fiddle with it while I’m running!).
I wore both of these out on my favourite 10k river circuit on Monday morning (I really am spoiled – I run past the Mayor’s office, HMS Belfast, Tate Modern, the South Bank, the London Eye, Houses of Parliament and Big Ben, the Victoria Embankment, London Bridge, the Tower of London, and finally cross over Tower Bridge on my usual jaunt out) and I’m really pleased how they held up! I was concerned in the first kilometer that I hadn’t made the waistband tight enough (though I’d stretched it as far as I could) but the “oh god they’re slipping down!” feeling passed after a bit as I got used to the fact that they’re just naturally less constrictive than my RTW pairs and there’s actually no danger of exposure!
The top I’m really happy with, too, though I think my next version will be more scooped under my arm and maybe just clear elastic serged onto instead of the FOE. Neither chafed enough to be a problem, but they just felt slightly close to me. Luckily, the running tops take up so little fabric that I can easily get another one out of the one metre I bought, so I really will be able to make another, though I think I fancy buying more woolly nylon to get a different contrast…
Next up are a dress and top I also made this past weekend (and I still need to photoshoot!), and I’m going to gingerly dip my toes into the swimwear waters, too…
Tags: bwof, knipmode, knit, top, trousersComment [9]
The quickest pirate coat ever
14 July 2008, 11:29SCENE: Last Sunday night on the boat…
James: So for Simon’s stag night on Saturday we’re going to dress him up like Dick Whittington. I thought he could wear my pirate coat and we’ll get him a tricorn hat and he can carry Bagpuss as his cat…
Me: If anything happens to that coat, I will murder you. I would sooner make a whole new coat than see anything happen to it after I slaved for two years making it.
James: Oh really? You’d make another coat? Would you?
And so begins the tale of how I made a pirate coat in less than a week. Luckily I still had all the pattern pieces traced out from when I made Simplicity 4923 before so I rummaged through my sewing room and unearthed those to reuse, saving myself a substantial amount of time. Monday morning I quickly went online and ordered 7 metres of black cotton drill from Chawla’s, who were absolutely brilliant and delivered said cotton drill the very next day at no extra charge. They really, really came through for me here!
So I spent Tuesday evening cutting everything out and sewing everything up to the godets in the construction steps, and then Wednesday evening and Thursday morning sewing up everything until the sleeve insertion. And then in a marathon session I finished the sleeves and the enormous hem on Thursday night, just in time to tag-team the embellishments with James on Friday night.
There were definitely shortcuts taken here in the interest of time – nothing was interfaced or understitched, the fabric wasn’t prewashed, and the buttons and braid were all (whisper it!) glued on. But seeing as how it’s a costume to be worn on the groom’s very, very drunken night of freedom, no one’s going to notice anyway…
Apparently Simon loved the coat so much that instead of feeling a bit embarrassed, he embraced it and wouldn’t take it off all night – he was even threatening to wear it into the office today! Now I’m starting to wish we’d actually had enough time to attach all the embellishments properly if people are going to see it up close and in the daylight…
And in “July is Knit Month” news, I’ve had an incredibly prolific weekend! I ended up making five garments in total (including this coat) and I’ve already worn three of them today (and it’s only 11am!). Anyone want to venture any guesses? I’ll have photos of them all throughout the week!
Tags: costume, jacket, menswear, simplicityComment [2]
Got my mojo workin'
7 July 2008, 12:28Ooh, I’m back baby! After my last two duds I was in need of some seriously quick fun to start off Knit Month, so I selected Burda WOF 06/08 #109 sewn in a lilac cotton interlock from Pennine Outdoor as my first bit of fun!
I love wearing this so much – it’s like if a sweatshirt and a teeshirt really hit it off and made sweet, sweet love and produced this little lovechild. It’s only 5 pieces (front, back, pockets, sleeve band, and hem band) and it sewed up on my beautiful overlocker in under two hours. Have I mentioned yet how much I adore my Bernina 800DL? Honestly, it’s made sewing knits SO quick, I can tell I’m going to have a very fun month already!
The kangaroo pockets really make this into something more than just the average teeshirt, and the separating zipper turns this into the perfect coverup for a bikini or little vest top (tank top). It’s perfect for the schitzophrenic British summer because it means I can wear a little vest to work and throw this over top when I get chilly without having to go the entire long-sleeves route. And I can see it’d be perfect for covering up shoulders on the beach if you burn a easily as I do!
This was part of my Summer Sewing Plans, and I’ve already started on my next project – the frankendress using the KnipMode gathered top and a BWOF skirt. It’s got a lot of seams, though, and the construction is anything but conventional, so I made my own technical drawing sketch to get the order of construction straight in my head before starting this morning.
I often do this mentally when I start a pattern, even if there’s instructions already included (like with magazine patterns in languages I don’t speak). I like to sit down and go over the order I’m going to sew everything in before I start so I don’t run into a wall further down the line. So there’s a little insight into my head (and handwriting!) for you. It’s a little bit different than constructing with just a sewing machine, as it’s all about trying to sew everything in flat with the overlocker, but it’s a little mental challenge, which I’m really liking…
Tags: bwof, knit, s08, topComment [9]
Like mother like daughter
4 July 2008, 15:52You may remember that a few weeks ago I gave in to my mother’s pleas and made her a her-sized version of my blue KnipMode shirt, in the same fabric as mine, but with shorter sleeves for the hotter Pennsylvania weather…
Well, it arrived and she did me proud with a photoshoot!
I only added an inch or two to a few seams here and there, hoping the stretchy knit would take care of the rest, and it looks great on her, so phew! If anyone’s interested in my exact Plus alterations (which I’m sure aren’t anywhere near textbook perfect), leave a comment and I’ll dig out my pattern pieces on which I scrawled my notes. She said she’s already worn it out and that it’s now destined to become her “lucky shirt”. Mom, I’m not sure I want to know! :)
In other sewing news, I’ve somehow got a backlog of 4-5 posts to come in the next few days, all photographed and ready to go. The rest of the internet may be taking the day off for that American holiday that isn’t celebrated or even acknowledged anywhere else, but you’ve got plenty to read over here!
Oh, and I was contacted by a nice man in Hawaii who found (and bought!) my same Joann Sonata sewing machine in a thrift shop but sadly didn’t come with the manual. I got a bit giddy to have a sewing machine buddy, and I ended up scanning the entire manual for him. If anyone else is interested in seeing what a mid-1980s sewing machine manual looks like, you can download the manual here in pdf format! As far as I know this is out of print and not available anywhere and the company isn’t around any more…. Copyright lawyers, please don’t hurt me.
Tags: knipmode, knit, magazine, top